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SPECIAL: How used clothes, ‘Okrika’, ‘Gwanjo’ become veritable options in Kano amid govt policy

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Gwanjo, Okrika, Akube, Bend-down-select, Second-hand are names used to describe fairly used items in Nigeria. Second-hand wear includes fairly used clothes, bags, shoes, and other clothing accessories usually imported into Nigeria and sold according to their grade.

From first to second and third grades, fairly used items are somewhat preferable among some Nigerians because of their low prices.

It is no longer news that bend-down select clothes are no longer in use abroad and are sent to Nigeria, refurbished, and then sold to various individuals in the market.

Trading in Okrika clothes is arguably among the most successful businesses in Nigeria because of its high market demand. Although, moves were made to ban the sale of Okrika clothing in Nigeria to curb the spread of coronavirus in the country. However, the market is still booming like no-man’s business.

Kofar Wambai, the centre of bend-down-select clothes and accessories in Kano

Wambai Market, popularly known as Kofar Wambai market in Kano, is a bustling marketplace where second-hand items are sold mainly. With thousands of buyers trooping in daily to purchase Akube clothes and accessories.

It is glaring that both the buyers and sellers run for their money.

The market opens from about 8 am till around 6 pm.

Kofar Wambai Market, Kano. Photo: Stephen Enoch

Being the best place to buy first, second and third-grade second-hand clothes at low prices even for resellers, other items can also be gotten in this market and are sold in bulk at very affordable prices. As a result of the congested roads leading to this market, it is choked most times, even on public holidays. Wambai can be described as the centre for Okrika items in Kano.

Alhaji Bashir Adamu, the Sarkin Kasuwa (Market head) of Kofar Wambai Market in Kano, tells Daily News24 that Kofar Wambai is an African market because individuals from neighbouring Niger Republic and other countries visit the market to buy second-hand items and also animal skins for making shoe bags and other accessories, asides those who troop in from other states in Nigeria to buy Gwanjo items.

Alh. Adamu has lost count of the number of shops because new shops keep opening frequently.

However, the estimated number of shops and stalls stands at about a thousand. He cannot exactly tell the specific year the market was established, as it had existed from time immemorial.

He said about 48 different kinds of things are sold in the market, including second-hand items.

“In this market, the quality of second-hand clothes varies. There is first grade, second grade and third grade and their prices vary. The first grade is of the highest quality and is a bit expensive than the second grade, and the same goes for the third grade. The clothes are brought in bales and then sold to other retailers and customers in the market.” He said

Clothing bales are tightly packed bundles of clothing packed in smaller units. A mixed adult bale could have approximately 200 pieces or less. A child bale could have up to 450 pieces of clothing, while an adult winter bale could have 130 pieces. Marketers revealed that clothing bales are imported from America, China, Germany, amongst other developed countries.

A store that houses various bales of clothing in Kofar Wambai Market. Their prices vary, depending on the quality. Photo: Stephen Enoch

“Considering the economic situation, people buy Gwanjo items according to their pocket. If one cannot afford the first grade, the second and third grades are always available. That notwithstanding, Gwanjo clothes are much cheaper and have good quality, which is why people troop into this market to buy them. Based on the quality, a bale of first grade could sell for about #200,000 while the second grade could sell for about #120,000 – 130,000, and then the third grade could sell for about #80,000, depending on the item.” Alh. Adamu explained.

He added that some problems bedevilling the flow of the market at certain times include the difficulties marketers face with customs officials and the unstable prices of goods attributed to the wavering exchange rate and the decline in the value of the Naira.

Gwanjo, beating the price and quality of boutique items

A major reason why certain people prefer to patronize Akube items is their affordability and quality, as observed by Daily News24. Major customers revealed that most Gwanjo items are very good in quality and frequently stand the test of time.

Mr DoGood Innocent is a frequent visitor of the Kofar Wambai market. As he meticulously selects the best from the selection of second-hand clothes, he barely had time to respond to this reporter. His hands are busy, digging deep into the bale to get a green turtle-necked top. He picked his desired shirt and spoke to the seller, saying, “Oga, this shirt go fit me, I like am well well, how much you go sell am for me.”

After asking to be interviewed by this reporter, Mr Innocent said, “Abeg I no get your time….na market I come and I dey buy clothes like other people for this market.” After much persuasion Mr Innocent obliged and said, “In comparison with some of the new clothes in boutiques, the Gwanjo clothes are perfect in quality and they last longer.

“The fact that these clothes are from abroad is enough reason to make me want to buy them because I believe that they are original and are of high quality even though it has been used abroad and then sent to Nigeria. Sometimes, the clothes might be overused, which is why you see me spending enough time to select the best so I can get my size and colour.” Mr innocent explained.

A Jean seller carefully arranged his stock. Photo: Stephen Enoch

Ms Amina Abdullahi describes the price, variety and availability of numerous options to choose from as the major reason she patronizes the Kofar Wambai market to buy Gwanjo clothing items. She added that the country’s economic situation is also another factor that makes her patronize the Wambai market.

“Everyone knows how the economic situation of the country is like, and when you go to a boutique to buy a pair of jeans, you’ll hear prices like 15,000 when you can get one for like 2,000 in Wambai. After buying your clothes from Wambai, all that is needed is to wash them, spray perfume and rock them and at the end of the day, no one will know that it is a bend-down-select cloth.

“When I was going to camp for my National Youth Service Corps (NYSC) orientation, I got my pair of shorts and shoes from Wambai market, and it lasted all through my service year. I’ve gotten a lot of things from the Wambai market like shoes, jackets, tops, jeans and many others. Trust me, Okrika clothes are reasonable, affordable and qualitative, and I’m not shy to say I buy second-hand clothes. “Ms Amina expressed.

Mr Abdullahi Saudatima, a regular at Kofar Wambai market, told Daily News24 that buyers should not let the sellers give them any item haphazardly when selecting from a variety of clothing items. “It is important for the buyers to check every detail like the size, colour and the quality of the cloth before buying because the clothes range from grade to grade.” He said

Ahmed Ibrahim said, “The country’s economic situation makes the bend-down-select market realize many customers.” Photo: Stephen Enoch

Bend-down-select, a profitable trade

While speaking to this reporter, marketers revealed that the business of Bend-down-select knows no limit. While some days could be gloomy with low sales and customers, they noted that the business thrives mostly during the harmattan season.

Mr Nasir Dambazzau sells second-hand T-shirts and trousers in Wambai and recalls when the Nigerian government restricted goods into the country. He said the embargo affected businesses, but it didn’t stop the bend-down-select market thriving. He said, “The demand for Gwanjo clothes and accessories is what makes the business flourish amidst challenges.

“Alhamdulillah (Arabic phrase meaning praise to be to God) we are realizing profits from this business because even people who own fanciful boutiques come here to buy our first-grade clothes and then sell to their customers, so asides the regular customers we get, boutique owners also come here to buy in bulk from us.

Kabir Nuhu, a shoe and bag seller, said, “My customers patronize me because of the quality of the shoes. Most new shoes cannot beat the quality of the bend-down-select. Photo: Stephen Enoch

“Some of my friends who were selling Gwanjo clothes have opened their boutiques in various places because they made enough profits, which enabled them to start their businesses officially. Asides from the gains we realize, we also face challenges. When the harmattan season is over, we usually record low sales, but that notwithstanding, Gwanjo business is profitable.” Dambazzau said

Rufai Abdullahi has been selling Jeans in the Wambai market for the past ten years, and he agrees with Dambazzau on the certainty that the bend-down-select business is profitable. He described business as one which doesn’t bring so many issues. “This business doesn’t have so much wahala (troubles), and its profitability is sure.

“Our counterparts who own prominent boutiques come here to buy clothes from us. Whenever I get new arrivals, I usually call them to go and select from the numerous jeans. After purchasing the jeans from me, they typically revamp them and sell them at high prices for their customers. Other retailers also come to the market to buy goods in bulk and then sell to their customers at high prices after refurbishing them; this is how our business revolves. “Abdullahi explained.

A retailer is leaving Kofar Wambai market with his sacs full of goods. Photo: Stephen Enoch

Lukman Sani, who sells shoes and Jeans in Wambai market, said he went into the business of selling fairly used items because he was jobless after graduation a few years ago and, so far, has been progressing in the business. He said even though he hasn’t hit his target, the business is going on fine, and the earnings from the business sustain him. “For those who are jobless, my advise to them is to dive into this business because when they start, they will have gains.” He said.

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